Moncler's masterclass in brand rejuvenation

Moncler如何恢復品牌活力

原文網址: Link

摘要： Moncler的執行長Ruffiniu在恢復品牌的活力上有其值得學習的做法，他不掩蓋品牌的內涵、善加利用延伸品牌核心商品以及流行的效應，加上慎選通路，成功的重新塑造Moncler。

　　在英國時報接受專訪的Moncler執行長Remo Ruffiniu有著迷人的魅力。在2002年他接手低迷已久的滑雪夾克製造品牌並且為他注入活力。此公司最近把他45%的股份以四億一千八百萬歐元賣給一家私人財團，這使得這家公司的市值被估計為淨十二億歐元。

　　讓我們來看Ruffini如何使Moncler品牌恢復活力。

建立品牌內涵

　　在報導中，當初Ruffini尋找一個他想要的品牌時，他希望是「一個小卻歷史源遠流長的品牌。」Moncler完全符合這一切！Moncler發源於1952年法國的阿爾卑斯山。剛開始以製作睡袋起家，後來就以我們所知的鵝絨夾克聞名。
　　法國的登山客和滑雪者都使用這個品牌。1968年在Grenoble的冬季奧運中，Moncler被指定為法國國家高山滑雪隊的奧運指定服。滑雪名人包括Brigitte Bardot 和Jackie Kennedy都是此品牌愛好者。

從標誌性的核心商品成長

　　與許多成功的品牌一樣，Moncler的名氣都是從一個具代表性的核心商品所開始：Burberry的風衣、Tod’s的平底鞋、Timberland的靴子以及Moncler的滑雪夾克。到目前為止Moncler仍專注於此核心商品並且避免過度延伸品牌的誘惑。

利用通路幫助品牌建立

　　當Ruffini接手管理品牌時，他只有有限的預算。他選擇重塑品牌的名譽來著手開始恢復品牌的活力。他選在山坡上高級的度假地販賣商品，「保持根基是很重要的，所以我在滑雪渡假地開始展店，英國人到韋爾比亞，俄國和美國人到聖莫里茲。」

對產品的熱情

　　形象當然是流行的關鍵。可是當人們要持續以較高的價錢購買產品時，他們也會在意產品的品質。身為一個手工品牌的領導者，Ruffini在訪談中表示：「我想要盡我所能的研發最棒的產品，我要在日本買我的布料，在波蘭或法國買最好的皮革，而在瑞士選擇最好的拉鍊。」

核心的延伸 

　　流行是少數形象建立者的延伸品(指產品銷售額不多，但對形象有益)有所作用的市場。PR buzz利用形象延伸品的幫助建立了知名度以及讓品牌保持新鮮和尖端。Moncler利用兩個高端的流行線來幫助形象建立：Thom Browne為男性設計的Gamme Bleu和Giambattista Valli為女性設計的Gamme Rouge，還有嘻哈大師Pharrell Williams(在Ruffini右側)所設計的限量版本來造成風潮。

　　結論：Moncler是一個重新幫品牌注入活力的良好示範。他們不遮掩品牌的真實性，時時更新品牌訊息和小心的在核心商業上做出創新。

Fascinating interview in The Times with Remo Ruffini, CEO of Moncler. He took over the sleepy ski jacket maker in 2002 and rejuvenated it, recently selling 45% to a private equity group for €418 million, valuing the company at a cool €1.2 billion.

Here are a few insights on Ruffini's rejuvenation of Moncler.

Build on brand truths

When Ruffini looked for a brand to buy he was after “A small brand name but one with a long history”, as he said in the article. And Moncler fitted the bill nicely. The brand was born in the French Alps in 1952, initially making quilted sleeping bags but soon moving into the quilted goose-down jackets we know today.

French mountaineers and skiers adopted the brand. And when the 1968 Winter Olympics came to Grenoble in 1968 Moncler supplied the French downhill skiing team. Celebrity skiers including Brigitte Bardot and Jackie Kennedy followed.

Grow from an iconic core product

Like many successful brands, Moncler fame flows from an iconic core product. Burberry is based on the trench coats, Tod’s on loafers, Timberland on boots and Moncler on ski jackets. And so far the brand has focused on this core product and avoided the temptation to over stretch the brand.

Use distribution as a brand builder

When Ruffini took over the brand he had a limited budget. He chose to start the rejuvenation by re-establishing the kudos and credentials of the brand by selling it on the slopes in upscale resorts: “It is important to keep the roots. So when I started to open stores it was in the ski resorts: Verbier for the English, St Moritz for Americans and Russians.” 

Product passion

Image is of course key in fashion. But people also want product quality if they are going to keep buying at a premium price. And this means a leader with a hands-on approach to product like Ruffini, who says in the interview: "I want to develop the best product I can in the world. I want to buy my own fabrics in Japan, I want to choose my best feather in Poland or in France, I want to choose the best zipper made in Switzerland."

Extend the core

Fashion is one of the few markets where "image builder" extensions (small sales, but good for image) make sense. The PR buzz created by such extensions helps build awareness and aspiration and keeps the brand fresh and cutting edge. Moncler use this approach with two high-end fashion lines: Gamme Bleu designed for men by Thom Browne and Gamme Rouge for women designed by Giambattista Valli. And a limited edition line created by hip-hop celeb Pharrell Williams (on the right with Ruffini) created more buzz.

In conclusion, Moncler is a great example of rejuvenating a brand by uncovering brand truths, updating and refreshing them through careful innovation on the core business.